This is probably the most complex project I’ve done in a while, maybe ever. The Quart Coat is a unique coat pattern from Pauline Alice. My daughter has been searching for the perfect coat for her 6 foot tall frame for quite a while, and finally found what she was looking for with the Quart Coat sewing pattern.
The Quart Coat is a short, double breasted, fitted coat with a high stand-up collar, inseam pockets, long sleeves with zipped cuffs. Inspired by the military outerwear, you will also find epaulettes and a pleated skirt detail at the side. The coat is fully lined.
We would rate the Quart Coat pattern an advanced sewing pattern. It has bound buttonholes, is lined, has pleats, sleeve zippers, and epaulettes. Plus the instructions are translated from French, and are quite succinct in some places.
Aria and I decided to order very good quality fabric to make this coat. After looking over the instructions, I knew that a coat this involved could be made well enough to last for years and years as long as the fabric was good quality too. We ordered several wool swatch samples from Mood Fabrics, and after checking them all out, Aria chose Italian Black Felted Wool Coating. For the lining, Aria chose a beautiful floral rayon/cotton voile fabric from Blackbird Fabrics.
First of all, we sewed a muslin to check the fit of the pattern. This was not only because Aria is so tall with broad shoulders, but because we’d never sewn this pattern before, she measured between 3 different sizes, and we wanted to have the fit right before cutting into the expensive fabric!
After sewing a muslin, we made several adjustments, and sewed another muslin! When we got close on the fit, we used the lining to make the final muslin, and when it fit perfectly, we cut into the Italian wool fabric. All the muslins are what really makes this Quart Coat fit beautifully.
Aria cut out all the fabric and interfacing. This was a huge help to me as I could work on other projects in that time, and also confession: cutting is my least favorite part of any project!
Sometimes I like to sew a garment all at once, but with a detailed project like this, I need to take it slow and steady so that I don’t get overwhelmed at the next step when I’ve completed a really difficult one. This was the first time I’d sewn bound buttonholes, or sleeve zippers like that. The pleated side detail is so amazing to see, but took careful pressing and sewing.
After wearing the Quart Coat a few times, Aria decided that she preferred the pleats to keep a stiffer shape, so she topstitched them in place through the edge of the pleats only.
In the end, all the time, money and care required when sewing this Quart Coat was well worth it. It turned out to be one of those projects that we both can really take pride in having sewn.