Today we have a tutorial for you for adding a full button placket and collar to the Thyme Shirt pattern. This would work for any partial popover shirt pattern with a mandarin collar.
Full button placket tutorial Step 1:
Cut out the front pattern piece NOT on the fold. Also, be sure to add seam allowance, in this case I added 1/4.”
Full button placket tutorial Step 2:
Next, you’ll need to cut out 2 button placket pieces. I just grabbed one from a different pattern, but you can use these dimensions: 1.5” wide by the length of your front pattern piece. Cut 2 of these placket rectangles. Also cut two pieces of interfacing for these button plackets and iron them to the placket pattern pieces.
Full button placket tutorial Step 3:
Press over 1/4” along one long edge of each button placket. Next, place the button placket on the shirt front with the right side of the placket against the wrong side of the shirt front. Sew the raw (unpressed) edge of the button placket to the shirt front using a 1/4” seam allowance.
Full button placket tutorial Step 4:
Open out button placket away from the shirt front and press the seam allowances toward the button placket.
Full button placket tutorial Step 5:
Fold and press the button placket down onto the right side of the shirt front.
Full button placket tutorial Step 6:
Edgestitch the button placket in place agains the shirt front. Add button and button holes.
So there you have it. A tutorial for how to convert a partial button placket to a full button placket tutorial.
Adding a collar is not very difficult either. I don’t have step by step photos, but here are the instructions:
- Cut out 2 collar pieces. (Again, I just grabbed the right size collar from another pattern.) Interface one of the collar pieces.
- Sew collar pieces right sides together.
- Trim corners to reduce bulk inside the collar.
- Turn right side out
- Press and topstitch along the sewn edges
- Press 1/4” to wrong side along collar stand with no interfacing.
- Lay wrong side of collar down on right side of interfaced collar facing piece.
- Baste in place with 1/4” seam allowance.
- Open out collar away from collar stand. Pin collar to shirt, right sides together. End of collar stand will hang over placket edge by 3/8”. Match the center back and ease the rest of the neckline onto the collar stand.
- Sew with 3/8” seam allowance.
- Press collar stand away from shirt, pressing seam allowances up toward collar stand.
- Pin collar stand without interfacing to collar stand on shirt with collar sandwiched in between.
- Sew with 3/8” seam starting off end of placket and curving around, across top of collar and back down other side and off placket.
- Clip into seam allowance (NOT through stitching) around curved part of neckline.)
- Turn collar stand facing to inside of shirt.
- Pin and then sew into place. Continue topstitching all the was around the collar stand if desired.
Modeled photos in this post photographed by Kalli June Photography.
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