Well this is embarrassing. Apparently I never shared my final Hey June June garment I sewed! But it’s really too good to just let go, so let’s all pretend like it’s not 3 months overdue.
The final garment I sewed for Hey June June is the Phoenix Blouse. The yoke on this Blouse is a great opportunity to add special detail, use special fabric, or feature a technique.
I started with an inspiration photo, maybe from Anthropologie? The pleated yoke and button tabs were the details from this photo that I wanted to incorporate into my blouse.
Next, the hunt was on for the right fabric. My fabric stash produced some lightweight, very sheer mystery fabric. A burn test revealed it’s contents to include polyester, although probably a blend.
But I wanted to use it anyway even though it’s quality is subpar because of the lines that would make the pleating very easy. Basically I didn’t have to trace any pleat lines because they were there already.
After the pleat guide lines are in place, the pleating begins. I pinched up and pinned along the lines, about 1/4”.
Next, fold the rest of the shirt out of the way and sew along the pinned guide lines. Press down the pleat toward the outside edge.
Skip over 1/2 inch and repeat the process over and over again. At the center of the piece of fabric I was pleating, I switched directions and pressed the pleats over the other direction so the yoke would have symmetrical pleats.
After I had a large enough piece of fabric pleated that I could fit my yoke pattern piece on, I cut out one pleated and one plain yoke piece.
The other changes I made to this Phoenix blouse to make it better match the inspiration picture were to make the yoke a button front. Because of the poor quality of this fabric, this ended up being the most stressful part!
The edges of the opening ended up fraying the longer I worked with it, and will also probably be the 1st part fo the shirt to wear out. Live and learn to use the best quality fabric, right?
I covered the buttons and used elastic cording to make button loops. Adding buttonholes to this just wasn’t going to be a possibility (see poor quality fabric notes above) but catching the tiny elastic cording loops proved impossible too! Finally, someone on Instagram shared a method where you sew in a whole length of elastic cording and just pull it out in the areas where button loops are needed.
The final change was to the sleeves. I used the pretty tie sleeves from the Lucerne Blouse. The Lucerne, Amalfi, and Phoenix have interchangeable sleeves which allows for many exciting variations. The only change I made to the sleeves was adding the covered buttons and buttonhole loops to the openings.
Overall, I’m very very happy with the design of this shirt and disappointed that it won’t last very long due to the quality of the fabric. At least I have the knowledge and ability to sew another one! Now to find the time…
See the rest of our Hey June June makes here:
Next time I’ll use this viscose rayon challis fabric.
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